As someone who loves his early 2010s Guerlain Vetiver (silver capped “Listerine” bottle) and his Vétiver Bourbon by PdE, I opted for French Lover/Bois d’Orage, instead of VE. I love the absence of citrus and the pairing with galbanum, juniper, violet leaf, and, especially, angelica. I even love the woody amber in the base, which gives it tenacity and propels it forward without becoming obnoxious. I wonder if it also boasts ~20% vetiver oil…
As for French Lover, while I love how terpinic and peppery it is, the dry down is very dull, being more or less straightforward vetiver. Now that's certainly preferable to other masculines but I'd prefer a twist. Another vetiver you may want to explore is Bel Ami Vetiver, and I might do an article on that too.
I enjoy the dry-down of FL but I agree that the best part happens in the first hour or two. As for Bel Ami Vetiver, I own and love regular Bel Ami (not vintage), but I regret not having sampled both before buying a full bottle. I’m yet to sniff Elléna’s “flanker” — and I’m afraid that when I do, I’ll want to do something rash (like buy a bottle). Would love to read your take on it, so I hope you do write that piece.
Woody ambers don't improve tenacity. Many of them are tenacious in and of themselves but they don't impart that property on other materials. Because of their radiance and potency, they can contribute that to later stages of evaporation and they have effects and synergies with other materials but they don't make other things last longer.
This makes me feel so good I have it on my shelf. Love the article, thank you
As someone who loves his early 2010s Guerlain Vetiver (silver capped “Listerine” bottle) and his Vétiver Bourbon by PdE, I opted for French Lover/Bois d’Orage, instead of VE. I love the absence of citrus and the pairing with galbanum, juniper, violet leaf, and, especially, angelica. I even love the woody amber in the base, which gives it tenacity and propels it forward without becoming obnoxious. I wonder if it also boasts ~20% vetiver oil…
As for French Lover, while I love how terpinic and peppery it is, the dry down is very dull, being more or less straightforward vetiver. Now that's certainly preferable to other masculines but I'd prefer a twist. Another vetiver you may want to explore is Bel Ami Vetiver, and I might do an article on that too.
I enjoy the dry-down of FL but I agree that the best part happens in the first hour or two. As for Bel Ami Vetiver, I own and love regular Bel Ami (not vintage), but I regret not having sampled both before buying a full bottle. I’m yet to sniff Elléna’s “flanker” — and I’m afraid that when I do, I’ll want to do something rash (like buy a bottle). Would love to read your take on it, so I hope you do write that piece.
Woody ambers don't improve tenacity. Many of them are tenacious in and of themselves but they don't impart that property on other materials. Because of their radiance and potency, they can contribute that to later stages of evaporation and they have effects and synergies with other materials but they don't make other things last longer.
Ok, I just learned something new. Thank you!