Ropion's Vetiver Extraordinaire

An aqueous spicy vetiver

Vetiver Extraordinaire was composed by Dominique Ropion (IFF) for Frédéric Malle in 2002. The intention, according to Ropion, was to create a modern vetiver, along the lines of classic masculine fragrances (e.g. Guerlain’s Vetiver). The brand boasts of an enormous quantity of vetiver and indeed we find just shy of 20% in the formulation. A specific fraction has been utilised, tidying up some facets so that it can be the centrepiece of the fragrance.

A ratio of Iso E Super to vetiver is a natural starting point (including Chanel Sycomore) and straightforwardly here we have a 1:1 proportion. Several musks are used, the two most notable being Habanolide and Tonalide. The former, in large enough quantity, gives a very characteristic hot iron impression, in the laundry sense, and this contributes to the very tenacious sense of freshness of the fragrance. Tonalide, now used less frequently because of biodegradability issues, is a hallmark of masculine perfumery, being found in countless fougères but also in feminine fragrances. It has a characteristic deep earthy facet it can contribute, which pairs very well with vetiver and other earthy woods like patchouli.

However, at least based on my experimentation, the key to the signature of the fragrance is the accord between vetiver and Floralozone, a non-captive IFF material that is as the name implies ozonic, just shy of metallic, with a floralcy in the direction of lily of the valley and an anisic fruity side. I find it a particularly apt choice because it is more textured than other lily of the valley odorants, which can often veer into plastic or rubbery impressions if misused — Floralozone on the under hand is quite ‘rough’ to my nose, and texturally is very satisfying with vetiver. It is tenacious and diffusive, and this signature is maintained for most of the evaporation.

Nutmeg oil, cardamom oil, cumin oil, pink pepper oil and clove (isoeugenol) give the spicy facet, and this is a very classic pairing. We find use of both cardamom and pink pepper in Chanel’s Sycomore for example. In fact, in how the vetiver is complexified, we find many similarities between Vetiver Extraordinaire and Guerlain’s Vetiver.

I find it to be a very simple, straightforward and thus elegant formulation. Many brands would not provide a budget for around 20% vetiver oil, which would require the use of other materials and tricks to give a vetiver impression if that is the theme. Among these would be things like Vetikolacetat (Symrise) or Melozone (IFF) for example. I particularly like that an emphasis on the grapefruit facet of vetiver is not part of the fragrance, as that would have been very déjà vu. Materials like methyl pamplemousse can provide this (see for example, Terre d’Hermès) or nootkatone crystals in the dry out.