Great piece, thank you! It immediately reminded me of a similarity I found just recently between two perfumes I find appealing, and this appeal is also about 'that something' they have in common. Do you have any insight in Twilly and Baiser Volé perhaps? It has to be something very long lasting and rather dry, high-pitched (but not overly so), verging on sharp. It blends beautifully with more voluminous floral accents as it keeps them fresh and vivid I reckon.
In my experience Carnal Flower changed around 2017. Is it possible they’ve substituted tuberose absolute for the tuberose base around that time, post Estée Lauder acquisition? I have a vintage from 2009, noticeably richer than the current formula, plus used many bottles between 2013 and 2017 until it was no longer like it used to be.
Indeed, Ropion does mention using tuberose absolute and I have no reason to doubt that, even a trace for claim. Though a recent bottle has 1% of the Firmenich base and I can't imagine 1% tuberose absolute in the original, it would be quite costly even for Malle. I think it was probably a combination of both but that is speculative. I can only speak to the recent formulation.
I would wager that greater claim to be false. First of all it would require knowing the formulas of every fragrance on the market to check. Poison had a good dollop of real tuberose concrete and Fracas had a high dose of tuberose absolute. I doubt it would surpass either.
So informative!! Love this, thank you!!
Great piece, thank you! It immediately reminded me of a similarity I found just recently between two perfumes I find appealing, and this appeal is also about 'that something' they have in common. Do you have any insight in Twilly and Baiser Volé perhaps? It has to be something very long lasting and rather dry, high-pitched (but not overly so), verging on sharp. It blends beautifully with more voluminous floral accents as it keeps them fresh and vivid I reckon.
Fabulous article, thanks!
These are indeed great bases! One that i also love is Tamarin and Citroasis - both very citrusy and yet long lasting.
Tamarine is magic, most interesting citrus base that Firmenich offers.
Brilliantly informative and most interesting piece, Jamal, thank you
In my experience Carnal Flower changed around 2017. Is it possible they’ve substituted tuberose absolute for the tuberose base around that time, post Estée Lauder acquisition? I have a vintage from 2009, noticeably richer than the current formula, plus used many bottles between 2013 and 2017 until it was no longer like it used to be.
Indeed, Ropion does mention using tuberose absolute and I have no reason to doubt that, even a trace for claim. Though a recent bottle has 1% of the Firmenich base and I can't imagine 1% tuberose absolute in the original, it would be quite costly even for Malle. I think it was probably a combination of both but that is speculative. I can only speak to the recent formulation.
Thank you Jamal. I do recall Ropion and Malle claiming the highest dose of tuberose absolute ever used in any perfume so maybe?
I would wager that greater claim to be false. First of all it would require knowing the formulas of every fragrance on the market to check. Poison had a good dollop of real tuberose concrete and Fracas had a high dose of tuberose absolute. I doubt it would surpass either.