Question: do more animalic-leaning musky fragrances use a different category of musks than those covered here? Or are they of the “carnal” variety (Exaltone being a high quality exemplar)? What I mean is stuff like OG Kouros, Muscs Koublai Khan, Musc Tonkin, Musk Ravageur, and others of their ilk. Or am I confusing things?
So all of those truly 'dirty' scents are not from musks as discussed here so far, they are from what I refer to in the second paragraph. All those fragrances you listed have a nitro musk character (ballpark of Exaltone, muscone, and so on) but that is not at all what makes them dirty. To accomplish that are bases which I will cover in this series of articles, but to mention here already some molecules, one is thinking of things like skatole or a civet replacer. There is a musk called civetone which is in natural civet and used in civet replacers but that itself is not dirty.
Fascinating comment about Bel Ami and its vetiver flanker. I love both but never had the idea that the difference in character might be linked to the type of musk used. So what type of musk would you say is used in the original version?
Thanks for the great post, I'm heading to part II...
Ok thanks, yeah BAV turns out very sweet in the dry down indeed. Even though I love it I agree it's probably overdone - I'm wondering what Ellena was trying to balance because he doesn't really strike me as the ethyl maltol kind of guy... 🤔
This is an excellent comprehensive tour through musk materials for us fragrance laypeople. Thank you! I’m curious about your use of the O term though. I understand the orientalism movement perpetuates racism and harmful stereotypes and so now Asian and Middle Eastern people are asking us not to use this term. See perfumers Yosh Han and Dana El Masri for more advocacy on this. Would you consider opting for the term amber instead? Thanks for your consideration.
It is not a 'movement' and orientalism refers to depictions of the East (broadly defined) by the West and there is nothing inherently negative or prejudicial about that — it's a case by case assessment. In perfumery amber and oriental are not the same thing, and the word amber itself has already had more than one meaning attached. Oriental isn't a misnomer either considering where sandalwood comes from. Now I'm half Middle Eastern and I have no issue with the term.
Question: does musk, and if so, which one feature in Dior's Fahrenheit? I've noticed that in the late-late-late drydown (as in the bare bones remenants of the fragrance the day after) it smells strikingly similar to Encre Noire's ending.
I don't buy any bases from that site because it's a bit troublesome (though not impossible) for me to verify authenticity as to adherence to the original formulation, modulo changes for compliance. I would also never use a base I didn't have a formula for unless it was something rather canonical and from a large house, like say Suederal LT from IFF or Cassis base 345 B from Firmenich that I know I can always count on being there.
I too wondered why they didn't document their bases more fully. I assume it's for commercial reasons? But doesn't their black box characters invite evaluation anyway?
I always look forward to these!
Question: do more animalic-leaning musky fragrances use a different category of musks than those covered here? Or are they of the “carnal” variety (Exaltone being a high quality exemplar)? What I mean is stuff like OG Kouros, Muscs Koublai Khan, Musc Tonkin, Musk Ravageur, and others of their ilk. Or am I confusing things?
Thanks, Jamal.
So all of those truly 'dirty' scents are not from musks as discussed here so far, they are from what I refer to in the second paragraph. All those fragrances you listed have a nitro musk character (ballpark of Exaltone, muscone, and so on) but that is not at all what makes them dirty. To accomplish that are bases which I will cover in this series of articles, but to mention here already some molecules, one is thinking of things like skatole or a civet replacer. There is a musk called civetone which is in natural civet and used in civet replacers but that itself is not dirty.
Got it. Just reread that second paragraph with all of this in mind. Crystal clear now. Very much looking forward to the rest of the series.
Fascinating comment about Bel Ami and its vetiver flanker. I love both but never had the idea that the difference in character might be linked to the type of musk used. So what type of musk would you say is used in the original version?
Thanks for the great post, I'm heading to part II...
The biggest difference is the massive heap of ethyl maltol in the flanker by Ellena. It's in your face caramel strawberry. Vile.
Ok thanks, yeah BAV turns out very sweet in the dry down indeed. Even though I love it I agree it's probably overdone - I'm wondering what Ellena was trying to balance because he doesn't really strike me as the ethyl maltol kind of guy... 🤔
Nothing is being balanced with it, you can just take it out.
I would love to try indeed. Now I just need the formula... (sigh)
This is an excellent comprehensive tour through musk materials for us fragrance laypeople. Thank you! I’m curious about your use of the O term though. I understand the orientalism movement perpetuates racism and harmful stereotypes and so now Asian and Middle Eastern people are asking us not to use this term. See perfumers Yosh Han and Dana El Masri for more advocacy on this. Would you consider opting for the term amber instead? Thanks for your consideration.
It is not a 'movement' and orientalism refers to depictions of the East (broadly defined) by the West and there is nothing inherently negative or prejudicial about that — it's a case by case assessment. In perfumery amber and oriental are not the same thing, and the word amber itself has already had more than one meaning attached. Oriental isn't a misnomer either considering where sandalwood comes from. Now I'm half Middle Eastern and I have no issue with the term.
Well, can’t win ‘em all! Thanks for your consideration, Jamal.
Question: does musk, and if so, which one feature in Dior's Fahrenheit? I've noticed that in the late-late-late drydown (as in the bare bones remenants of the fragrance the day after) it smells strikingly similar to Encre Noire's ending.
This is great. Would love to have your opinion of animusk extra.
I don't buy any bases from that site because it's a bit troublesome (though not impossible) for me to verify authenticity as to adherence to the original formulation, modulo changes for compliance. I would also never use a base I didn't have a formula for unless it was something rather canonical and from a large house, like say Suederal LT from IFF or Cassis base 345 B from Firmenich that I know I can always count on being there.
I too wondered why they didn't document their bases more fully. I assume it's for commercial reasons? But doesn't their black box characters invite evaluation anyway?