Ma Griffe (Carven, 1946)

They don't make them like this anymore

I had the fortune to evaluate a fresh batch of Ma Griffe composed according to the original formula with all banned and/or restricted materials intact. It was created by Jean Carles for Carven and launched in 1946.

At the time it was marketed as ‘un parfum jeune’ though would be perceived as dated by the consumer of today. Unlike most fragrances on the market today, the juice does correspond to the name very well, ‘griffe’ being claw in French. It has the most original and startling top note I have ever smelled in a fragrance to date, in a way that is still aesthetic rather than merely interesting. It is unfortunate the top note is the best feature because that is usually the first to be ravaged by time when seeking vintages and it is not present in the current formulation.

Citronella is immediately evident, along with aldehydes, green notes and styrax, which imparts a peculiar leathery, plastic, animalic aspect. I think it’s likely that a very subtle touch of asafoetida is present as well — pure it is a repugnant sulphurous raw material. I’m sure I’m missing other subtle details but I couldn’t care less, as for the longest time I haven’t been moved in this way by a fragrance. It is gripping and not at all comforting, but engages your morbid curiosity. A harmony has been reached between sufficient contrast to maintain tension but also that moment of ‘greater than the sum of its parts.’

The dry down is sufficiently close to Calèche that is more or less preserved today by Hermès, originally composed by Guy Robert, decades after Ma Griffe. It became clear now where Robert found ‘inspiration’ — perfumery today owes so much to accords found by Jean Carles and Germaine Cellier.

It was in 1948 in the United States that citronella began being used as an insect repellent and unfortunately for many, that association will be present if they ever smell the real Ma Griffe. However I have to say, even with this association present, it did not detract from the beauty of the accord.